Coffee, in the UK has gone through something of a transformation in recent years. But in the main, the major coffee chains appear to have little or no interest in improving the coffee they sell. They just serve something loosely described as “coffee”. Some would question even that. But is it really poor? And if so, why? Let’s try and find out.

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Search & Destroy
So, why is coffee in the UK not quite at the level of quality it could be? Well, not always, but usually? Why is it if you want to drink a decent cuppa, you have to spend three hours researching local coffee shops in order to remove the revelatory from the rubbish?

Costa Fortune
And why is it that there are over 16,000 Costa Coffee outlets in the UK and they’re all rubbish? How does that work exactly?2

Transformative
Much like coffee, I’ve gone through something of a transformational journey in the last few years too. Once upon a time, not so many years ago (actually quite a few), all I did was drink tea. About 5-6 cups a day. Then, as I got older I started to embrace the characteristics of coffee.
But back when I was a teapot, coffee was very simple. The choice was, black, white, or instant. Or, if you were at a restaurant you might get offered coffee with cream. And if the restaurant was of the gourmet, cordon bleu or fine dining variety, you might even get an Irish Coffee. I know. Wild eh?

The Canning Town Cappuccino
My mum used to make frothy coffee too. We didn’t have a coffee machine with a steam wand though. Oh no. None of that fancy ‘la-de-da’ continental nonsense. She just used to heat up the milk in a saucepan until it began to boil over then she poured it into a cup with some instant coffee. I thought it was amazing and very sophisticated. But, that wasn’t so much a Madagascan Mocha as a Canning Town Cappuccino.

Avant-Garde
Other than that there wasn’t much else to choose from. My dad became very avant-garde during the early 70’s when he embraced a stovetop espresso maker, or Moka Pot, and he’d get some coffee beans from somewhere (usually a bloke from work would sell him stuff that had been ‘knocked off’4)and he’d get me to grind the beans with a hand cranked grinder that was screwed onto the top of a little wooden box where the ground coffee would collect.

Aroma
It was hard work and whilst I didn’t particularly enjoy grinding coffee by hand, it was cheaper than buying a Bullworker and I loved the smell of the beans once they were ground.

Silence
And then, not much changed in the UK, not until the late 90’s. Then, suddenly a number of things happened.

The 90’s
In 1998 Starbucks appeared in the UK for the first time and revolutionised coffee shops on the high street, as did Costa Coffee, in much the same way5. Interestingly, both Starbucks and Costa were originally founded back in 1971. Starbucks as a coffee shop in Seattle, USA, Costa as a roastery in London. So, while my dad was employing me as child labour to grind up beans, on a zero hours contract with a less than minimum wage salary and zero job prospects, both Starbucks and Costa were already in existence.

Bohemian Rhapsody
And it was at about this same time that my dad went all bohemian. I say bohemian, it should be noted that being bohemian in 1970’s Britain consisted of having a Vesta Chow Mein dinner (with chips), sloshing back a glass of Blue Nun, and tucking into some Bird’s Angel Delight.

The Garden Tiger
This is an example of the type of conversation my mum (possibly) had in our neighbourhood in the 70’s.
Gwen: “How’s your Bern then Marie?”
Mum: “Bern? He’s as right as ninepence so ‘e is, me ole china6.”
Gwen: “Is he? So, wos happened then, with your Bern, Marie?”
Mum: “‘Appened? How’d you mean egg-zackerley?”
Gwen: “Well, my Fred says he’s gone all namby-pamby.”
Mum: “All namby-pamby? What my Bern? He never would, gawd, love-a-duck.”
Wilde
Gwen: “Well, my Fred said he was seen in the Tiger, you know, the boozer, and he was drinking Liebfraumilk and quoting Oscar Wilde! Said he’s gone all bo-hoo-mian, and all that.”
Mum: “Bo-hoo-mian? Liebfraumilk? Well I’ll go to the foot of our stairs7.”

Gwen: “As I live and breathe. Liebfraumilk. In the Garden Tiger. Saying things like, “I can resist anything except temptation,” and “to lose one parent may be regarded as a misfortune, but to lose both looks like carelessness.” I mean, whaddya make of it all?”
Mum: “Well, he’s got a point.”
Gwen: “Who, Bern?”
Mum: “No, Oscar Wilde. But, between you, me and the gatepost, I think he has gone all bo-hoo-mian recently.”
Gwen: “Who, Wilde?”
Mum: “No, Bern.”
Gwen “Oh.”
Mum: “He saw a dockermentary on it the other night. David Frost was talking about them Libertine fellas and now he wants to wear red frilly shirts with a sovereign on a chain and discuss Ginsberg and Kerouac with the blokes at work.”

Gwen: “Oh Marie. What are you going to do?”
Mum: “What I always do. Knock some sense into that wooden ‘ead of ‘is.”
Gwen: “Well, as long as he doesn’t start on the Vesta Chow Mein you should be fine.”
Mum: “It’s funny you should say that…”

Quality
But in their infancy, the focus at Starbucks and Costa was on quality coffee over quantity. Then, once quantity began to translate to large profits, quality became less of an essential item and was reduced to desirable where possible, until the provision of quality (in this case coffee) finally disappeared altogether.

Expansion
When Costa and Starbucks were small brands in the UK, they could offer quality coffee at a fairly reasonable price. But to keep increasing profits they had to expand. Expansion costs money and so to finance this, the quality of the coffee decreased while the cost of it to the customer increased. Until eventually there were 1000’s of outlets of each in the UK alone and the coffee had got worse year on year.
The Real Thing
In the case of Costa Coffee, this came to a head around 2019 when it was acquired by the Coca-Cola Company and any thoughts of returning to a quality coffee shop disappeared altogether, when profit became king.

Das Capital
And it seems to be counterintuitive to me, that as a company expands, the quality of the product decreases as the cost to the consumer increases.
But this established “financial growth phenomenon” is now an accepted industry practice, and is more commonly referred to in economic circles as capitalism. And according to God’s Holy Law, we should all be grateful for it too.

Cheap as Chips
And, one of the ways large coffee companies maximise their profits is quite simple. They buy cheap coffee chuck it in a cup and sell it at a large profit. But how does cheap coffee become a disgusting cup of coffee? Well, for coffee to be a high quality product it has to be grown properly, in the right geographical climate, then washed and dried properly, then roasted well and used within a specific period of time.
Also, low grade coffee beans (those that haven’t grown properly or are diseased) are separated from the quality product at source. And this is where Starbucks et al come into the equation.

The Dark Side
Because, what many large coffee companies do is buy low-grade coffee beans by the tonne, ship it to the US or Europe, then disguise it as quality coffee, by over roasting it until the beans are black, burnt and oily, then flog it as Italian Dark Roast in their coffee shops.

Lambrini
This is why it tastes bitter, burnt and generally unpleasant. It’s the coffee equivalent of Lambrini or Carling Black Label.
The Blame Culture
Now, before I go any further I’m not pointing the finger of blame at you, dear reader and consumer. If you like any of those drinks (Starbucks, Costa, Lambrini etc.), knock yourself out. Don’t let me stop you.
But you should be aware that places like Starbucks8 shouldn’t be charging anything more than about £1.50 for those drinks because that’s probably what they’re worth. However, you’ll find you’re paying nearer to £3.50-£4.50 for them. It’s like buying Lambrini for £50 in Tesco. It’s cheap for a reason. And coffee isn’t cheap but some of it should be.
Squirties
Of course, then places like Costa flog you a load of other stuff (usually referred to as ‘seasonal specials’) to further mask the taste; syrup, sugar, squirty cream, whipped cream, whipped and flagellated cream, whipped, flagellated and wearing bondage trousers cream, sprinkles, marshmallows. Some of those drinks should come with a public health warning.
Admittedly, if you’re having syrup and squirties added to your drink, you probably won’t taste the difference in the coffee anyway, so there is that.

Tontine
But enough of the high street. There’s plenty of other places serving up rubbish coffee. One of the worst I’ve had recently was in Ironbridge in Shropshire in a place called the Tontine Hotel. It was so bad I took a picture of it. Not that it looks bad but, well indulge me a for few minutes and let me explain.

Rules of the Game
There are a number of rules you have to follow to make a decent cup of coffee, whether it’s a Latte, Cappuccino, Espresso or just a cup of instant (ha ha). First, as discussed you need good quality coffee beans. That is, they were not burnt in the roasting process and the beans should not be any more than a few weeks old, because after that they start to become stale. 10-14 days after roasting is when it’s generally accepted they are at their optimum condition for grinding.
Grinderman
Then you need a good quality grinder to grind the beans uniformly. Ground too fine and the espresso will be bitter (over extracted). Too coarse and it will be sour (under extracted). Then, for an Espresso the water temperature needs to be around 92-93c for optimal taste. Milk needs to be frothed to a temperature of around 65c to create the correct velvety texture for say a Latte (with Latte art).
These are some of the main things that all coffee shops should be following as guidelines to making a reasonable coffee. Below are my attempts at Latte Art.


Pins
At the Tontine Hotel (as with many Cafes that really have no idea how to make coffee), they used cheap, over-roasted beans. Then they were ground poorly. The Espresso was probably brewed ok since the temperature is usually set on the machine. Then the milk was overheated, it wasn’t frothed properly and the whole thing was chucked into a cup by a woman who gave the impression she’d rather stick pins in her eyes than serve a customer.
Then she charged us £3.90 or some ridiculous amount and we had a couple of sips and decided it was too repulsive for further consumption. The Tontine Hotel looks really nice from the outside, but let’s just say, looks can be deceiving.

MAWS
Now, while we were in Ironbridge we took a walk along an old disused railway line to a village called Jackfield which boasted a place called MAWS. Maws stands for Makers Artists Workshops Shops and in the centre was a coffee shop. The Maws Centre was once the largest tile manufacturer in the world but now it was very quiet, as was the coffee shop. But the coffee they supplied was fantastic. Everything that a good coffee should be and really well made. Suddenly, I was quite emotional. Then I had to pay for them and that soon straightened me out.

Iron & Fire
However, it transpired that the Tile Press Cafe (as it was known) served Iron & Fire Coffee. This, I discovered was a specialty coffee roaster based in nearby Shrewsbury. And that explained why the coffee was exceptionally good. Because specialty coffee roasteries actually want to create an excellent product, and furthermore their reputation depends upon it.

Millions
However, the likes of Costa (or the Coca-Cola Co.) don’t really care whether you like their coffee or not, as they already have millions of loyal customers.

Chains
So, is there any decent coffee to be found in the high street coffee chains? Well no, not really. However, these are only my opinions (so, important, valid and unbiased then)…
- Costa – The best thing about Costa is they are consistent. Consistently bad.
- Starbucks – Their ‘blonde’ roast is quite good, and I even had a decent cup from a machine in a motorway service station
- Cafe Nero – Was one of my favourites…was
- Pret a Manger – Sandwiches and salads yes. Coffee, pfft.
- Greggs – Stick to the sausage rolls
- McDonalds – Have a burger
- Wetherspoons – Surprisingly good, and only £1.80 with refills (just don’t ask for hot chocolate refills)
Dive
So, there you have it. A not so deep dive into the murky world of the global coffee industry. And as previously stated, it pays to do your homework on which cafes serve which coffee, assuming you even care about such things.

Price Hike?
But as I said before, if you like Costa then you keep going, I’m not judging you (I am really…shhh) but just remember, the millionaires on the Coca Cola board of directors will be demonstrating their gratitude for your unwavering support to their product by putting up their prices in January 20269.
Further Research
If you’d like to learn more about coffee, here are a couple of suggestions:-
Social Media – James Hoffman on YouTube. Some great videos on all manner of coffee related nonsense.
(2930) James Hoffmann – YouTube

Books – The Devil’s Cup by Stewart Lee Allen, is part history of coffee and part travelogue.

Coffee – Grind Coffee – a good place to buy coffee online – although worryingly, they have recently gone through an expansion programme a la Costa Coffee, so watch this space.

Grind Coffee | Buy Coffee Online UK For Delivery From Grind
Thank you for your time.
Back to Blogs… Lees Blogosphere
STOP PRESS!!!
I’ve just read that Coca-Cola have put Costa Coffee on the market for $2bn due to “challenges in meeting growth expectations.” However, they didn’t mention the 28 outlets in Chelmsford (1 every 4 miles2) as being responsible.10








































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































